It took a few days to get round to writing this wrap-up of Porkcamp 2011 and all the better for it because, again, Porkcamp has induced serious behavioral change for me, but more on that later. So, how did Porkcamp turn out this year? There have been times where I questioned my decision to repeat it so soon but that was swiftly pushed aside: The event existed entirely in its own right and I am so glad to have done it.

We had a lovely dinner on Friday night, hearty kale and slabs of brined and smoked pork and spontaneously decided to visit the pigs in the sty they had been to transferred to in preparation of slaughter. For me that first glance of an animal that will die to feed me is still an emotional experience. Whereas I was the only one to see the pigs beforehand last year it felt good to do it in a group. Strong and hairy beasts they were too, after the best part of a year out on the pasture, including a very snowy December and temperatures well below freezing all day round. Saturday started early and again watching the slaughter of an animal in almost surreal quiet is an experience that I would recommend to any meat-eater. The difference in quality to conventionally farmed pigs soon became apparent: Thick layers of snow-white fat coated meat that wasn't in the slightest bit watery, the pigs weighed in at about 300 pounds total, 100 pounds heavier than their unfortunate industrial cousins.

The rest of the morning was spent filling sausages, we produced a massive variety this year, the Boudin Noir turned out wonderfully and after a few days rest the recipe I handed in, sausages with grappa, fennel and blood orange zest and juice, have mellowed to become something I am a bit proud of. There are still caraway salamis and Ahle Wurscht - a traditional german take on salamis - hanging on site, waiting for us to have them picked up after ripening.

Lunch was followed by an extensive tour of the farm, exhibiting new heights of geekdom as questions rose to ever more detailled/obscure levels. It served as a stark reminder to the morning's proceedings to visit the now empty patch of land that 24 hours prior had hosted the pigs, their footprints still visible, their huts now empty. Eating animals creates those moments and when Porkcamp makes them transparent it does something useful, I hope.

What became more and more apparent is that the absence of trained chefs brought out the best in terms of team spirit. Rather than have people take the lead every single recipe we worked on was the result of joint decisions and discussions. Yeah, so our knife technique is sub-par but hey, we finished preparing a massive buffet by 8 pm and that is a feat in itself. Very tasty it was, too, with dishes ranging from faggots to sticky ribs, accompanied by seasonal root vegetables, a wonderful caponata with bitter chocolate and followed by desserts that weren't strictly needed, but that's not the point of sweets anyway.

A lot of merriment followed thereafter and while there were plenty of discussions on husbandry, farming and butchering table talk soon enough took a lighthearted turn. The last guests turned in after an 18 hour day, tired but seemingly very content. The asian lunch on Sunday worked like a charm, a whole grilled pork belly filipino-lechon-style being the obvious centerpiece, accompanied by plenty of chinese and nonya dishes. After lunch we said our goodbyes, once again I've got the feeling that I'll be back before long.

So, what have I taken with me from porkcamp? Last year's porkcamp had fundamentally changed the way I source my meat privately, but there was still a blind spot: In restaurants I would still eat meat from unknown sources and especially with company lunches there would be meat dishes  far too cheap to contain anything else than industrial rubbish. I've now put an end to that: Either I know where the meat is sourced from or I won't be eating it. Life is too short for crap meat.